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Port Hedland is commonly considered the ugliest town in Australia. This air-brushed, colour enhanced, tourist bureau snap doesn't adequately demonstrate why.

We are comfortably settled in this stylish asbestos shack arrangement on the wrong side of town. We like to think of it as 'ghetto chic'.

But everyone loves hangin' in the 'hood. And there's plenty of monkeys to hang with....thirty seven percent of the aboriginal population is under fourteen!
Port Hedland is a bit like Barcelona. It's full of trendy modern art installations. For example, people come from miles around to gaze upon this piece of genius, known as the water tower. It also reminds you where you live, in case the heat has left you feeling absent minded.

The experimental piece of public art below looks like a giant pile of salt. What's surprising is that it is in fact a giant pile of salt. 300,000 tonnes per year are exported from the port to fish and chip shops around the world.

This installation piece below was designed by a group of community artists who call themselves The Company. This grassroots collective have creatively used the natural resources of our great red country to create a bizarre, post-apocalyptic art extravaganza covering 350 hectares. Welcome to the BHPBilliton Iron Ore Plant at Nelson Point. It's about 150 metres from the town centre and sprinkles generous helpings of red dust over everything for miles around. Iron ore is brought in from the mines on trains, processed at the plant, and then loaded onto ships bound for China, Korea and Japan where it is converted into Hyundais and Toyotas and returned to us at five times the price.

And at night, its just like Christmas!
But its not all modern art and mineral booms. We're surrounded by spectacular wilderness, gorges, waterholes and national parks. Steve does lots of travel and seems to spend most of his time driving around the countryside attending meetings barefoot and swimming in waterholes when he should be working. It's his ideal job.

He's become very intrepid, Russell Coight style, and has taken to wrestling snakes and lighting fires with nothing but a tiny stick soaked in sulphur and a small cardboard box labelled 'matches'. At this very moment, he's traipsing round the Kimberley on his way to the upcoming Native Title Junket in Darwin.

Last weekend we camped at the Yule River, about half an hour out of town. This is me looking perplexed, hoping that Russell will arrive before nightfall to transform the pile of sticks and canvas at my feet into three and a half star accommodation.

Luckily, by sunset the tent is assembled and we're free to sit back and enjoy the view.